2008 Giuseppe Mascarello, Barolo, Monprivato

Robert Parker 94

Readers will have to be especially patient with the 2008 Barolo Monprivato, a wine that has none of the early appeal of other recent vintages. Still very much closed in on itself, the 2008 possesses serious depth, power and structure, but those elements are suppressed by the recent bottling. Dried rose petals, crushed berries and mint are some of the nuances that flesh out on the powerful, imposing finish. I don’t think the 2008 will ever match the 2006 or 2007, but it is going to be fun seeing how close it gets. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048. Mauro Mascarello’s 2008 Baroli have closed down considerably since I tasted them from cask in November, 2011. The 2008s were just bottled a few months ago. I expect they will be more expressive in another 6-12 months. Overall, the 2008s are mid-weight wines built on grace and perfume. I don’t see the pure power of 2006 nor the opulence of 2007, to name two recent vintages, but wines that are built more along the lines of 2005. I expect the 2008s will age on their acidity rather than fruit, but these wines always have a way of transforming in bottle, so we will see. There is little doubt Nebbiolo did better here than Barbera in 2008, as was true throughout Piemonte. The 2008 Barberas are good, but average, or perhaps slightly better than that within the context of the estate’s long, established history. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484 [Antonio Galloni, 31/10/2012]

Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048