2016 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay Premier Cru, Clos des Ducs

Vinous 92

The 2016 Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs 1er Cru is more transparent and displays less fruit intensity than its peers, although I would prefer more presence for a Volnay at this early stage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannin and very good acidity. Pure and refined with tart red fruit on the finish just seem so vivacious and full of joie-de-vivre. More approachable than its peers, perhaps this is a case of a Volnay demonstrating that sometimes less can be more. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting in Burgundy. [Neal Martin, 22/10/2019]

Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040

Robert Parker 95-97

“The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs was destemmed by hand this year, with five people taking five hours to complete the entire vineyard. Apparently Frederic’s great-grandfather did the same in the late 1920s before there were destemming machines. It has an ethereal, brilliantly defined bouquet with disarming pure red berry fruit that, for want of a better expression, are just pure pinoté. The palate is defined by exceptionally fine tannins, real tension, slightly chalky toward the second half with laser-like precision. This will be one of the wines of the vintage-it is that good.” [Neal Martin, 29/12/2017]

Anticipated maturity: 2022-2050