2007 Col d’Orcia, Brunello di Montalcino, Poggio Vento Riserva

Robert Parker 95

The estate’s 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is striking. Freshly cut roses, sweet spices and red cherries wrap around the palate in a sensual wine endowed with superb depth and pedigree. This is one of the more feminine, gracious wines of the year. It will be interesting to see where the 2007 Poggio al Vento goes over the coming decades. Today, it is all about texture. The combination of dazzling fruit supported by plenty of structure makes me think this is one of the few 2007 Riservas that is built for the long haul. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2042.

When all is said and done, Col d’Orcia might have produced not just one of the wines of the 2008 vintage, but possibly two. Proprietor Francesco Marone Cinzano and his team, led by long-time estate manager Edoardo Virano, have done a magnificent job with these wines, the Brunellos in particular. Like many estates in this part of the region, Col d’Orcia was hammered by the August 15 hailstorm. Yields were down by a whopping 40%. What the estate lost in production is compensated with the superb quality of the wines. During my visit, I also tasted a vertical of the estate-s Moscadello, a first for me. In the best vintages, the Moscadello can age two decades, although whether or not the wine improves with bottle age is a matter of personal preference. Mine is to drink the wine either upon release or after it is 20 years old.

Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642 [Antonio Galloni, 28/06/2013]

Anticipated maturity: 2017-2042