2009 Jonata, Sangre, Santa Ynez Valley

Robert Parker 94

The 2009 La Sangre de Jonata is very awkward at first, but gradually opens up to reveal huge fruit backed up by equally imposing, masculine tannin. If opened today, the wine will require quite a bit of air. Ideally, it is best left alone for several years. At this stage, the aromas and flavors are very much primary. It is the wine’s textural elegance and layered personality that impress above all else. With air, the wine truly begins to blossom. In 2009, there is just a touch (1%) of Viognier in the blend. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021.

Jonata truly stands out in the Central Coast as a producer of exceptionally refined wines. This year I tasted with Winemaker Matt Dees and General Manager Armand de Maigret. According to Dees, macerations were quite long in 2009 because the grapes had very high levels of phenolic ripeness. Vintage 2010 was trickier, especially with regards to rain that claimed at least one victim, the Cabernet Franc-based El Alma de Jonata, which was not produced that year. The 2009 reds were all in bottle, while the 2010 reds were in barrel. I also tasted the new releases from The Hilt, a new Pinot/Chardonnay project that is reviewed separately in these pages.

Tel. (805) 564-8581 [Antonio Galloni, 31/08/2012]

Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021